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Making a Hot Pad
with the cut down method and "Star Point" blocks

You can make these hotpads --whether you are an experienced quilter or a beginner you can do this!!
They may look complicated but with the cut down method they are really easy!!
The cut down method refers to rough cutting swatches and borders / backing and then trimming it to the size you want after sewing the fabric together. This prevents too short borders or backing fabric and saves time and effort. The "Blocks" are made by sewing fabric together and then cutting out a square from the center of the joined fabrics.

For those quilters who want more blocks For quilters who want to try the easier version (fewer blocks)

Star Point Block Layout Star Point Block Layout
Please don't let this pattern scare you. I promise it is easy to make! Even a beginner can make this. You need to be willing to take a little time to make certain steps the best you can make them for the best results but it is not hard!
Check out the Quilt Block page for the Star Point Blocks. There are other quilt block designs you can make with these blocks.
You can see the steps in illustrations below
Make sure you read these Tips and Tricks before you start.
You will need:
Basic sewing supplies / 2 layers of traditional batting / a ruler about 2" x 9" / a ruler at least 9" x9"
a mini cutting mat and a medium cutting mat / a rotary cutter / and an acrylic template ( I use a 1 1/2")
You can find templates and rulers on my other site www.patchworkbyrhonda.com
Tips:
Don't use a fluffy or thin batting. Traditional batting works best with 2 layers.
Also don't try to use a really large ruler or cutting mat. It will be very awkward to work with them.
Fabric needed:
A fat quarter of each fabric. I recommend using a small print because a large print will get lost in the small pieces that result from the piecing. Make sure you have good color contrast in the fabrics you choose. If you have scraps you are going to use instead of buying fabric you just need to make sure you have enough swatches for each color of fabric for the design you chose to make.
Step 1 Make the star point blocks for the quilt block you choose to make.
Click here Star Point Blocks to go to the "block" directions
Look at the pictures above for the colors of fabric you will need Make sure to note the placement of the colors in the blocks
Step 2 Lay the blocks in rows according to the picture above
Step 3 Sew the blocks together in rows then sew the rows together Did you read the tips? There are important tip about how to make your star points meet correctly!
Step 4 Place your pieced top on a cutting mat and with a ruler - trim it even - being careful to keep a 1/4" seam allowance.
Step 5 Rough cut 2 shorter strips rough cut about 8" X 3" --and 2 long strips rough cut about 10" X 3”
Rough cut means cut off a piece of fabric without measuring. You do need to have reasonably straight edges but don't go to the trouble of cutting a perfect border because you are going to cut it down later.
Step 6 Place the strips on a cutting mat - with a ruler and a rotary cutter cut a straight edge on one side. Using the 8" x 3" strips sew one on the left side and one onto the right side matching a straight edge to the edge of the pieced top. Open the seams and iron. I like to iron the seam open but that's up to you.
Step 7 Sew the other 2 strips to the other two sides.
Step 8 Trimming the borders--find the middle of the pieced top - lay your ruler over the pieced top
Measure from the center out to the edge of the border.
I use 8 1/2" for the size of my hotpad. If you use the same 8 1/2" size you will need to trim the border so it measures 4 1/4" from the center of the pieced top out to the border. 4 1/4" is half of the 8 1/2" that we chose for the size of the hopad. Probably you will see that the border (after it is trimmed) will measure about 1 1/4" from the seam where the border is added. This will vary a little depending on your seam allowance.
You can use a differant size if you choose. If you want a bigger border then cut your borders wider. Or your pieced top may end up a differant size than mine due to differant seam allowances. My tops usually end up at 6 1/2" or so before borders are added but yours might be slightly differant. Whatever size you decide to trim your borders- you need to trim all four borders the same size. If you trim the first one 1 1/4" then use that same measurement for the other three. If you make a mistake in trimming your border smaller than you intended (as I have done at times!) you can just trim the other three the same size. Just make sure your hotpad is square and the borders are all evenly trimmed.
Step 9: To add the loop -- Find the center of one side of the hotpad. Fold the shoestring loop in half. Tack the two ends together and wrap the thread around the ends a couple of times and then tack it again once more. Now sew the loop to the center of the pieced top (on the front side)so it hangs down into the hotpad. You want the loop to be inside the two layers of fabric( between the pieced top and the backing).
Step 10 Lay the pieced top face down onto the backing fabric. Pin it in place and with a ruler use the edge of the top as a guide to trim the back to the same size as the top.
Tip:
Everyone uses a slightly differant seam allowance so to get the right fit you need to use your pieced top as a guide to the size needed for the backing instead of a preset measurement.
Tip:
Don't use pins with a head on them for this step. Pins with heads will make it difficult to get the ruler to lay flat on the fabric while you trim.
Step 11 Lay the pinned top/ backing onto the batting - the pieced top should be face down onto the batting. You will have to move the pins from one side to the other as you repin the top/backing to the batting.
You can use pins with heads on them here if you want. They are my favorite because they are easier to find and get hold of. Next trim the batting even with the top/backing
Step 12 Find the bottom of the hotpad. This is the side that is opposite of the side that has the loop attached to it. Now turn back the edge of the fabric on the bottom side. Pin it back. This exposes the pieced top and the batting without the backing. You need to baste this. Place the hotpad under the needle on your sewing machine and sew along the bottom so the pieced top and batting are basted without the backing. Put the folded back fabric back in place and repin. Pin the whole hotpad. You can see how I pin mine in the illustrations below. I pin all four corners first then pin down two sides and then pin from that corner across the rest of the hotpad. The idea is to distribute the fabric evenly over the surface so when you quilt it down you don't get any puckers.
Step 13 Place the hotpad under the sewing machine needle about 2" from the bottom right corner. Sew around the hotpad until you get back to where you started.
Leave a 2" opening to turn the hotpad with. Put your hand into the hotpad - grasp the inside end and pull it through the opening --use the other hand to push the fabric. Once you have it started through you should be able to work the fabric through until it is all turned right side out. Using your turning tool or a small scissors carefully poke out the corners. Straighten and iron the hotpad. Make sure the opening is turned in and sew around the edge of the hotpad to finish it. This should also close the opening. If you prefer you can close the opening with blind stitching.
Step 14 Quilt the hotpad with stitching in the ditch. Quilting in the ditch is sewing over or close to the seams that are already there. Because you are quilting after the hotpad is sewn you need to work from the center out. If you have a square or a star in the center it's best to sew arouond it first. Then sew any corners and just work out from the center or you can sew along any straight lines first to anchor any areas you can. Remove pins as you go.
You can spay with sizing to give the hotpad a stiffer look and /or you can spray it with Scotch Guard fabric
To see the diagrams for the blocks click on the "Blocks" link above.
Below you can see the illustrations for the steps to making a hot pad.
Short Borders / Long Borders / Adding the short borders / Trim the short borders
After adding the green borders I decided I wanted a small inner border and a navy outer border. So you just trim to the size you decide on and repeat the process to add the second set of borders. Don't worry about the size- if you cut to a 1/2" you will have a 1/4" seam allowance which will leave you with a 1/4" inner border. It isn't hard just watch the seam allowance as you sew your seam so you get a straight seam.

All four green borders on / Trim green borders / Add Navy short borders / Trim navy short borders to 1/2" or 5/8"
You can see here the ruler laying on the pieced top. Notice the 4 1/2" from the center of the hotpad. Sorry! I scanned it backwards!

cut shoestring piece / sew front to back thru / wrap around and sew / loop added to top thru from front to back again

Pieced top face to face / Face down on batting //Sew around the edge / Pinned hotpad right side out on the backing
Finished hotpad
Notice the finishing seam around the outside edge and I did not sew any quilting seams over the green in the center where they would show. I only sewed around the star points and around the navy blocks and the border seams.
Hope you enjoy this project!! Happy Quilting!!!
Rhonda
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